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Kota Gushiken is a Tokyo knitwear designer who doesn’t like being told what to do, and his clothes show it.

He studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins, learning on an old domestic Brother machine, and worked in the knit departments at Dior, Proenza Schouler and Christian Wijnants before launching his own label in 2019.

His collections come from everyday life. Stitches wander, holes open up, hems droop, loose threads are left hanging on purpose. Pieces are made with skilled knitters in Japan.